Committed to professional custom CNC machined parts & precision machining services

Portable Swing Set

by:Mingquan Machinery     2019-12-07
I was walking around the other day and was hit by inspiration, what does everyone need in life, but what is nobody thinking?
Obviously not?
Portable Swing!
Are you ready to change your life?
Okay, that\'s all you need!
Material: 8x 1sfp 3ft black pipe8x 1 inch coupler (
I\'ll buy another one just in case.
1x 1in3x ft horn iron (
I will learn a little more because it is so convenient! )
4 x 1in black tube caps1x 2sfp 7ft black tube 1/8-
1/4in board to make two 4 inch square 7-
Grade 8 Bolt 7/16n nut 9 oz leather sheet7/16in (
You can go here to grade 8 if you want, but it\'s not mandatory)
1/2 in ropeCanvas tarp1 1/2 in black nylon strap (20feet?
I will also shoot extra if possible)
Leather dyeSaddle SoapTan Kote1in masking tapeThread 4ft long zipper gum Tragonath Scrap 2x4 and other wooden screwdriver: drill press with stepped drill angle mill with cut off shaft hole, magnet drill with cut off shaft hole, square metal ruler chop saw force drilling sewing machine should do this!
Find the midpoint of your 2in pipe and add a small mark.
To get a line that really runs around the perimeter of the pipe, you can wrap the pipe in a piece of paper.
Once the edge of the paper is aligned, mark along the edge of the paper, which will give a very accurate mark!
OK, we are going to do some cutting with angle grinder, after working in several metal shops, there are some friends who have experienced unfortunate things.
Wear some safety equipment!
Protect your ears, eyes, lungs and hands.
This is one of the things that I take lightly, and now, after I have done a lot of metal work a day, my lungs are particularly sensitive to particles in the air, i\'m pretty sure I have a little bit of steel spots in my lungs and I\'m pretty sure I have scars there.
As for eye protection, at least wearing goggles, I personally wear glasses and find it much easier to see from the full face mask, I think it is safer to use it.
Also put some earbuds, headphones or earmuffs which are loud.
PRO tip: Keep the angle grinder in position!
Grab from under the angle grinder instead of above.
The logic is that if you cut down, and the rotation of the wheel is also pulling the grinder down, if/when the angle grinder starts, it usually does that, this position will allow you to \"grab\" the grinder instead of letting it pop out of your hands and may get into your legs/feet.
TLDR: do a security check on your pip ito and cut along the line you marked.
PRO tip: leave a small label (
Cutting is not completed completely)
Screw the pipe down
In this way, you will not be surprised that a large tube falls on the ground, instead, you can put it aside gracefully!
Pro tip 2: Make sure to support the end of the material when cutting!
When you cut, the area you cut will inevitably become weaker, and as the weight of the hanging material drops, your cutting tool may begin to combine to the bottom of the cut.
This is especially bad when using disks that rotate very fast and also very fragile.
Disk explosions can happen and they can seriously hurt you, so keep this in mind!
Okay guys, this is one of my favorite tools.
Combo square!
Bow to its glory! Why you ask?
Suppose you want to make 30 pieces of clothing of the same length. . . but how?
Just slide the ruler to the length you want, tighten it, make a mark, cut at the Mark, place the square at the end of the stock you are now slightly shorter, mark again, cut, repeat.
Simple lemon squeeze! PRO-
Tip: Install your horn like a mountain, cut down from the top of the mountain, and enjoy the glory of the perfect square cut made by the angle grinder!
Clean up those rough sharp edges so they are more accessible without letting the red water flow out of your hands.
Also, add a little chamfer to the inner wall just cut, which will help to weld!
Okay, do you guys know they made the \"quick grip c clip? They are great! Go get a set!
Remember when I said the combo square was awesome?
It can also be used here!
Set depth (
This project 4 inch
Place the tips of sharpie on the edge of the ruler and slide them off the plate together. Ta Da!
You now have a line parallel to the edge at a distance of 4 inch.
Now that you have laid these lovely lines, clip the plate down and draw a line with the angle grinder, it will be easier to see.
Take your time to do these cuts, preferably multiple exposures, control the channel instead of the dash, and make some huge gouges on your plate.
If you do metal work, put these things or gojo, it\'s really anything that has pumice.
The delicious gravy makes you look like you\'re not coming out of the blast.
OK, I was in a hurry, I didn\'t think clearly, I bypassed the edges because I didn\'t want to be cut and didn\'t think I needed to find the center later on.
So I made a good guess of where the corners are, and I got two straight lines that converge in the center, which is good enough for me!
Hit a center punch and indent in the center of XWell, my compass got mad at me, my roommate, and the other people trying to \"fix it\" were all a compass that was out of line, they are trying to find out who it is in their journey.
I have to respect that.
I still need to make an exact circle though, so I have a small drill diameter on a piece of wood (
It really doesn\'t matter what size)
As our center point, we will use the bit itself to install that hole and then measure the radius of the outer diameter (OD)
Our 2in pipe and added a little extra.
I marked that distance and drilled a hole of 1/2, and the strange thing is that this hole is perfect for sharks and you may need to open a little hole to make it more appropriate.
After marking where the OD of our pipe should be about, mark another hole 1/2in at the edge of the bit wood side (
Away from sharp)
We will use the second circle to place the bolt hole position on the x we draw.
Have you played these?
It\'s easy, you can have the best drill bits for metal processing, and you can pop up big holes without fuss.
Each of the 4 holes took a full 28 seconds, drilling 4 holes with the least \"Oh God, what are these terrible noises, why is everything shaking, make a dash there and add a similar mark to the other square.
Now, if you are a barbarian, transfer the punch or drill bit with 1/2 in, use the pre-drilling as the guide, transfer the center of each hole in this way, no matter how precise we cut these squares, these holes will be arranged without any fuss.
Throw some bolts after drilling through the next set of holes to make sure everything looks skookum.
We are a professional here and chamfer your holes!
They make things look better, they are easier to put together, and the surroundings are great!
Remember how we turned those holes, how is the accuracy of this processing is not high?
Well, if you\'re like me, maybe there\'s only one direction and all the holes are lined up on it, so mark it!
Mark where the weld should go and/or where it should not be, and say \"this is not correct\" as long as you can at a glance \".
If you do all of this work and have to cut off some pipes to re-weld a new board it would be a really bad thing!
OK, I opened my favorite 3d modeling program * and made this triangle with two lines of 6ft ,(
I know it\'s inches, but the math is almost the same)
I know I want the angle of the leg to be 36 degrees because it sounds like a good angle and it will allow a good size footprint.
Then I added a circle of the center point to the vertex of the triangle, which is also the center of our big tube.
I then added two tangents to the circle and perpendicular to the 6in/ft lines that will represent the angle iron we use to mount the legs onto the Tube track.
Then I got the angle of the two lines relative to each other, so we now know that we need a fixture with a 36 degree angle!
* This is Solidworks, but I recently found out how crazy Fusion is and have switched Autodesk;
D * 36 degrees, 36 degrees, 36 degrees, remember its 36 degrees, let\'s turn our helicopter to 36 degrees!
Take your horse!
I\'m glad I got you!
The number on the helicopter is related to 90 degrees!
This means that if we want a 36 degree angle, we subtract that angle from 90 degrees, let\'s get 54, lock it, and do some cutting!
Take another piece of wood and put it on the cut wood that we just determined will not interfere with the angle.
Now take a hammer and hammer it with some screws and just tap it once to fix the screws with a very low effort, so when you use an electric drill to finish them, you don\'t need to hold them.
Majestic, breathtaking, spectacular, is a gift for mankind!
All the words that don\'t describe this mess of wood, but hey, it should work! (
Add a small thin piece of wood to the top of one of the two pieces running vertically, the reason will be explained soon)
Put down your 2in pipe and one of the angle iron pieces we previously cut to the fixture and make sure the pipe is at the level to ensure the correct installation of the angle iron.
Throw a ground clip on your pipe and add two big nails.
Then realize that you have a lot of paint on your tube, scrub it off and add more welds.
After adding a surfacing seam to the pipe, be aware that the heat will spread and you should scrub the entire end of the pipe so that the paint does not smoke and burn.
Realize that you may have lost some brain cells and continue your life.
I want to have two angle iron meet in the middle, but math, and some other things can sometimes confuse me.
To avoid any unnecessary calculations, as well as grinding and more material purchases, we will slide the pipe slightly forward while keeping the newly welded angle iron in contact with the flat surface of the fixture, so keep our perspective.
Slide the other piece of angle iron in place as before and clean paint, stickiness and welding as much as possible!
OK, this is odd to explain, but if in the first 2 in pipe section we weld a piece of angle iron, slide forward and weld 2nd angle iron to the left, then we should do the opposite in the next half.
Weld the first angle, skooch, weld the second angle on the right.
It may or may never make sense now, but trust me it will get better.
Fortunately, the brain cells I burn through are not those that remember the paint burning when you try to weld it.
With this in mind, let\'s be careful to clean the pipes, as if not tomorrow, so we can see the bare shiny steel.
Place your angle at the end of the pipe, add some big nails in the corner to make sure it stays in place and you are happy with its position.
Clean up the area you are going to weld and lay a weld!
Move the pipe up as before, but as we discussed before welding the next Horn to the other side of the first pipe!
Go to your grinder and grind any goobers from every surface of the 4 adapters and add a chamfer too!
For these, add a big pin in a corner and be careful to make sure to cut the weld with an angle grinder, if there is, please be careful to lift or lift it up, or hit it with a hammer until it shows up.
Add another big pin on the other side and repeat it.
Set up at least 4 big nails and weld a bead from big nails to big nails.
Note: After completing the swing settings, it\'s a bit tricky to start the thread on some of them.
The next time we try something like this, my roommate and I have an idea to test.
When something is threaded inserted, Weld each fitting, the fitting fluctuates due to the temperature change, the threaded pipe should keep the fitting working properly!
Surprisingly, we went back to the Sander and added a chamfer.
Why are we doing this?
It allows the weld to go deep into the cross section of the metal, thus creating a stronger connection between the parts.
Why are we cleaning the end of the pipe?
Well, I don\'t like the paint smoke or the fact that it will remove more contaminants from your welding area.
Think about it like this, it says if you have a post (
The piece of paper with back glue)
Put it on a dog with a lot of fur and it won\'t stick well because there is a lot of fur and it may fall off (contaminates)
It\'s holding you back (piece of metal)
Hairless dogs are better means of transportation after
This is very helpful for me and I know at a glance if things are in the right place.
I laid two pipes on the ground to make sure they were all the same level
Linear, then I made a line at the top of both, and when laying the components together for final welding, it would help to check if everything is as real as possible.
Have you ever heard of something like this called a magnet?
They are great, use a bunch and center as much as possible on the circles we draw in front of the tutorial.
Add some big pins and make sure everything is lined up as much as possible.
Before removing the magnet, also let the weld cool, things can change as the metal cools, so keeping it when the part cools will help keep everything you want.
This is a big part, probably the trickiest part of the whole tutorial, without going back (
Not a lot of work)
Take the time, breathe, stare at this, make sure everything is as good as possible, make sure everything is level, connect the plate bolts together to make sure there is no problem with alignment.
Then look at the stars outside and make sure the universe is one with you and you are one with it. Then. . .
Add your studs, wash them, weld a bead, wipe the sweat on your forehead and tears on your eyes, the hardest part is over and the rest is easy.
Screw everything together!
If you have a hammock, the swing can be-frame!
I can have two people sitting in a hammock together and it looks really strong, but it can modify feetso so they don\'t start with you!
Oh, you think we\'re running out of the sander?
No, I like that thing!
Take some angle iron, cut vertically to 1ft, mark a line down in the middle (6inch)
Mark a line of 40 degrees next to the center point so you will have a big ole spike.
Cut off your spikes, go to the sanding machine, soften the edges so as not to cut it yourself, maybe add a chamfer so it sticks better to the ground and it\'s up to you!
Plop the lid on your desk and place your spikes on it, which doesn\'t need to be very accurate about the weld, but it would be better to be more centered.
Add some bighead nails and add a bead and the spike should be very strong after all is done and said!
Eat some cake, hard work, hard work!
Oh, it\'s not a cheating day?
Please give us some!
I don\'t want to be the only one here to eat the glitter cake covered by Dino and unicorn! Good, right?
Now that we have cake in our belly, it\'s great to be assured that this is my first real deep sewing project. So we will learn together and model this swing box from the pencil case depicted here!
Take some canvas and throw it on the ground, mark it with a straight edge on a rectangle about 52 inch long and 30 inch long, and then use the bowl I found as a template to mark a circle about 34 inch circumference.
Take an iron and flatten your canvas to refresh the old fabric!
Fold and iron on the longer edge, then fold again and iron again.
This will make the edges more durable and look better!
Take out the zipper length you \'ve laid since the beginning of the novel, on the longer side of the canvas, grab some pins and continue to stab them gracefully through the canvas and zipper.
Screw the end of the zipper down too!
Align the other half of the canvas with the side you just stitched, add some pins, and unbelievably pull the tube you just formed!
Before it was completely nerve-wracking for me, I never did the work of sewing the zipper!
Zipper with new nails!
As the title of this step says, it\'s time to explore the town!
Do your best to put the zipper on the track and don\'t worry if the end is perfectly aligned, that\'s why we added a little extra zipper to the end!
Let\'s start where the layout handles are going!
Find the center of the bag and drop a 1 in wide masking tape from the zipper to the zipper.
Place a 2x4 along the edge of the center tape and add another piece of tape along its side.
Find the center of the tape, mark it, add a Mark 1/2 up and down the line.
Put another piece of tape on all three previously dropped tape.
Lay a piece of 1in nylon strap material along the blue line you recorded with skill and precision to see if the handle length looks right.
The quantity of 48in is suitable for me.
Cut into length and burn the edges, not only because it\'s fun to play with fire, but also to avoid end wear over time.
When fixing the strap in place, be sure to leave a pin about inches from the edge of the zipper as a sewing stand.
After stitching the first half of the handle, pass the edge of a piece of tape through the top stitched part of the handle, and then tear off the tape from the nylon to be stitched, to avoid some very annoying cleanup postscript.
Lines made using tape are used as a general reference for the closing position of the stitching.
Now, repeat what you just did on the other side, just make sure the nylon overlaps a little bit at the center of the bag.
Again, cut the straps of about 49 in, which will give you enough material to make two rings at the end of the bag (4 total)
We will use it to add the sling!
Nail the nylon down with tape along the edge of the canvas, then turn the sewing machine and make some lines!
In order to avoid your zipper being untied, we will sew it by hand.
Double A thread and go through a needle to make sure there is enough extra cost (
You can always remove the material and it is much more difficult to add it)
Make a few rings at the end of the zipper and make a square knot at the end.
Pull your bag now and turn it over!
Take the canvas plates you cut before and start stitching them to the end.
This part is a bit weird and annoying, but you should have enough room for error, so just take your time, settle down and play around!
After sewing, turn over your bag!
Personally, I used some extra nylon straps to make the straps.
Catch some rope through the label at the end, then tie the knot and adjust the length to your liking!
I found that the best goal is to have the bag over the hips, like an inch or so above, but try it!
Note: I should say I have not added the buffer part to the sling yet, but it is very much needed.
I am currently using a piece of cardboard for parcels and tape and it works fine for my needs and I may do something better in the future.
Use straight edges to cut a leather rectangle of about 24x8 in, as I don\'t really like the look of a fully rectangular seat to make its ends thinner.
To do this, make a mark in the center of the two 8 in sides, and make a 1 in mark on both sides of the center markNext Mark 4in from the 24 in side.
Connect these points now and cut a line from mark to mark with straight edges to give you some super sweet perspective!
I don\'t like hard corners that much either, so let\'s get them up!
Simply track and cut around an arc/circle of the appropriate size (
Mine is the edge of my combo Square)
It still looks a bit choppy, but much better, it won\'t be obvious as some sort of tidying stuff comes up.
The handmade look is very fashionable now, isn\'t it?
Use the center mark on the side of 8 in to place a mark in inches from the edge.
Punch with a half inch convex ear, center on the mark, and then punch on the leather.
Pro tip: while using the hole punch, make sure you use a piece of scrap wood as backing, which will prevent you from making a lovely round mouth on the table you are working on, of course, unless you like it!
Oh God, do I like chamfer tools?
Over time it will break your edges and make them less fatigued, it will make them more durable and more comfortable depending on what you are doing!
We start with the simple application of alcoholic Leather dyes in brandy color, uniform application, forming a uniform pattern on the whole seat.
Even if this is not a perfect app, a uniform direction of your strokes can prevent the seat from looking messy.
Do not use round or unstable strokes in dye applications. Apply a layer of Tan Kote, buff it with a clean rag and wipe it with a sl!
Make sure your edges are smooth too!
Add some gum tragacanto to the edge using the brush, and then smooth some more!
Finally add some saddle soap and buff like no tommorow!
All of this should result in a seat that is elastic and sweet to fight against the various elements well!
Pick up your hammer and put the lower half of grommet on top.
Place the settings under the seat (Furry side)
You should be able to see the shaft of this collar go through the leather.
Place the upper half on top and place the striking pillars on top of the entire assembly.
Now pick up your hammer, concentrate your breath, look at the top of the striking post, mumble mum under your breath, slap the Post hard, but don\'t be too hard, don\'t be too simple.
Enough to set everything up, don\'t rotate, but don\'t be hard enough to leave traces.
So this is almost the same as the rocking chair, just a little small.
Cut two rectangles 9in x1.
5 in creates a mark for punching at 1 inch in on the 9 in side, and. 75in on the 1.
Like we did before, a 1/2 hole pops up on the side.
Trim corners at similar angles, chamfer edges, dye, Tan Scott, chewing gum, saddle soap but add some buttonholes instead of photos!
Buy some of this rope, it looks good, it is suitable for all kinds of weather, and it is very strong!
Take out your axe and cut off two lengths at about 7ft each.
To prevent wear and tear, burn the end.
A double half knot is tied around a climbing buckle that is rated as rock climbing.
When the weight is placed on the seat, the style of this knot tightens the mountaineering buckle, making it a fairly safe knot.
Make a back knot under the seat as a stop for the seat!
It only takes a few minutes to install, unfortunately the ground is very hard, so I can\'t use the spikes we made, that is, they are more optional.
It\'s easy to be one of my favorite projects for a while, although it\'s a huge note, it\'s a fairly easy project to complete, and I really recommend giving it a try!
Please feel free to ask questions and leave a comment!
Custom message
Chat Online 编辑模式下无法使用
Chat Online inputting...